Raf Simons Fall 2002: A Designer’s Silent Protest Against Consumerism

September 20, 2024

We all know Raf Simons for his iconic designs such as Riot, Riot, Riot, to his more experimental sides such as his 2017 collection with Calvin Klein. However, one very commonly overlooked runner-up for his greatest collection would be his unorthodox 2002 autumn exploration of the natural world, titled “Virginia Creeper.”

If there is one piece from this collection which you might recognize, it has to be the Nebraska sweater – a piece worn by many celebrities such as A$AP Rocky. This sweater, although nothing special to the eyes initially, would be the superstar of the entire show, even incentivizing Virgil Abloh’s 2015 ready-to-wear collection for his label “Off-White”. 

To fully understand the environmental implications of this important collection, one must first understand the meaning of its title. The Virginia Creeper is an invasive species which grows at a rate unseen in other members of its biological family. It is closely related to the Poison Ivy, despite being much less toxic. This collection would be his way of expressing his concerns regarding nature and environmentalism through its backdrop in the woodlands, its natural colour palette, and its choice of fabric. It would serve as the predecessor to his 2003 collection titled “consumed,” which would be a powerful piece of social commentary renouncing fashion’s slogan of “buy, buy buy!”

Written by James Yin